Jon In England: As I was walking that ribbon of highway...

I saw above me that endless skyway:

I saw below me that golden valley:

This land was made for you and me.

¬Woody Guthrie

(Actually it was more of an emerald valley)

6/25/10 continued

I made my way to Greyfriars road to catch the X43 bus to Brecon. It cost only 4.5 pounds and the ride was spectacular. Really looking forward to Brecon Beacons National Park. According to Arthurian legend this was the land of dragons where many an epic battle took place. Having arrived in Brecon I had a stroll through a very lovely town before my hike to Methyr Tydfil (pronounced Murthar Tidvul) I stop at Coracle restaurant for A rissole (a spherical croquet of corned beef, mashed potato and herbs-yum!). Just as it looked as though I was about to find the trailhead, I frightened the people who were giving me directions by asking which way towards Methyr. It turns out the town was over 15 miles away and half of the hike I had in mind was uphill. I stopped by the only bike store I could find to ask about rentals, but there was no option to return it in Methyr. It turns out that national parks here are quite different from those in the United States. While I was used to large areas of undeveloped land with nothing but nature and trailmarkers here this national park was more like a mountainous county I didn’t realize that the towns I were visiting were already in the middle of the park and that the trail I had in mind was not a trail at all but more like an alternate walking route from city to city. So now I find myself reading on a bench that looks as though it was carved out of part of an old ship, along the Brecon canal. In 15 minutes I’ll know if there’s room on a canal boat tour, otherwise I’ll take a bus to Methyr where I hope to catch a ride on the Brecon Mountain Railway. We’ll see. Maybe I’ll still see a dragon.

Waiting. Its really quiet here and the sunlight hits the trees in such a way that makes them sparkle in a way that cannot be manufactured. They’re truly glistening. So it turns out that there were no more canal tours which is good because know I don’t have to make the tough decision between the Brecon canal tour and Brecon Mountain Railway.

Farewell Brecon, never change. Who knows when I’ll be here again? What I do know is that I am leaving here with my mind completely at ease.

The bus from Brecon to Methyr Tyfil was the most amazing part of the trip so far I don’t know how such quality could be described but I’ll do my best. Try to picture lush rolling mountains that go to the skies with lakes in the valleys, herds of sheep roaming freely wit no sign of a shepherds or farmhouses in sight. Aside from the road and the cars on it the only sign of humanity are hand-built stone walls that look as though they’re from the 13th century. Pure, absolute, unmanufactured beauty. I am awestruck, born anew, and feel nothing at the same time. Everyone on the bus is checking their blackberries, texting, and reading magazines while I am starry eyed, jaw agape as each passing valley is stunningly more impressive than the previous one. Then, just as if it was only a block away we arrive in Methyr. To think all this for 2 pounds on a bus ride as if it were nothing. EPIC!

Still speechless, I somehow manage to ask for directions to the Brecon Mountain Railway. Turns out it’s in the nearby town of Pant but requires another bus to get there. Unfortunately, I arrived at the railway station just in time to hear the sound of a steam engine taking off. So I bought a Welsh flag at the gift shop so the journey was not in vain and then start making my way back. I stop off at Y Pant Cod Ifor (not going to try to pronounce that one) for a pint and a meal as well as directions. Pant is beautiful imagine a little hilltop village with both a suburban and medieval feel. From Y Pant Cod Ifor I catch a quick cab ride back to Methyr Tydfil with a great cab driver who points out many of the town’s statues and sites while above the mountains on either side of me. Apparently the first movable steam engine came from here. I make the train back to Cardiff and pass out immediately. Fortunately, I woke up in time for my stop and walk back to Nos Da where I shower, have a Gwynt Y Ddroig (a Welsh cider whose name means, “wind of dragon”), and go to bed.